Adding Kitchen Speakers and Volume Control – Part 1 of whole house wiring

About a year ago I finished my home theatre in the basement. When this happened, I left my wife stranded with an old bookshelf stereo and some ‘lame’ speakers in the kitchen for her to listen to. For her birthday I told her I would make sure she had good music back in the kitchen and living room and make it better than ever! What this meant was getting her good speakers, allow flexibility between rooms and also giving volume control in this added zone.

Years before I had run speakers to the kitchen, but they ran off of the master volume control, not convenient if you got a phone call, or needed to listen to something else.

Project Stats: Kitchen Speaker Run
Time: 3 hours, but I took my time.
Cost: Low (but I had most of the items already)
Difficulty: Hard
Value for cost: High
Tools Needed: Wire Snake, Utility Knife, Torpedo Level, Tape Measure, Volume Controller, Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, High Quality Speaker Wire, Cordless Drill, Stud Sensor, Wire staples

The first step is to understand how all of this works and understand how the signals travel. I’ve made a small flow chart to show how this works.

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Click for full size.

As you can see this is just like setting up regular speakers, but there is an addition of the volume controller. Check out the gallery for details on how I installed everything!

By working with a wire snake and choosing your runs and drilling points properly you can acheive a professional quality job with little effort. To hire someone to do this would most likely cost you several hundred dollars. Out of pocket for this project was under $30, not counting speakers, or stereo equipment.

Now everything works and the ability to adjust the volume is great! I highly recommend a project like this to enhance your house. Continuing this throughout your entire house is an easy project that can raise the value a lot.

Delta Toilet Install

A few months ago my friends, and The DIY Geek supporters at Delta contacted me about an upcoming expansion of their company, Delta was going into the toilet game. As we have a great relationship they offered to send me one of their units so I could install it and let them know what I thought of their product. I had some free time last weekend and installed it.

Delta provided this unit free of cost. However this is not a paid post and I will give my honest feedback about this product.

To prepare for this upcoming post, I installed a competing companies toilet at my parents house. This gave me the opportunity to see the differences between the two units. Between the two of them the Delta unit was superior in every way.

Project Stats: Delta Toilet
Time: 2 hours alone (1:15 toilet removal, 45 min to install new toilet and clean up)
Cost: Medium
Difficulty: Easy
Value for cost: High
Tools Needed: None*

Project Stats: Competitor Toilet
Time: 3 hours with another person (1:30 toilet removal, 1:30 min to install new toilet and clean up)
Cost: High
Difficulty: Medium
Value for cost: Medium
Tools Needed: Bilge pump, sponge, scraper (for old wax seal) rag, adjustable wrench, pliers, Phillips screwdriver, Flathead screwdriver, bucket for water, level, water supply line

When Delta says on the box that they include everything you need to install a toilet, they are not lying! While doing this install I took this advertisement to heart and brought up no tools. I did bring up some nitrile gloves but found that there was a set already included.

The box had the instructions laid out neatly on top with two bags. One was an uninstall bag for the old toilet and the other was the install bag with all of the small pieces. The uninstall bag had everything I needed ( gloves, rag, super absorbing block, sealable bag for garbage ) the install bag had everything I needed for the installation of the toilet as well as an amazing install tool.

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This multi tool makes the uninstall and install much easier than other toilets.

The hardest part about this entire project was taking the old toilet out. Using the provided tools from Delta I was able to get it out fairly easily. However I did have to bring a tool in to cut a stripped bolt. Take a look at the gallery to see my install notes, I’ll have more after the pictures.

Delta Toilet Install

Between the two installs the Delta fixture was much easier. Delta included everything you need to get this job done. What that means is that any homeowner of any skill level can change a toilet without having to have access to a bunch of extra tools. The other nice thing is that Delta includes top quality components. A thick gauge braided stainless hose with plenty of slack. With the competitor you had to supply your own…which could mean an extra trip to the hardware store.

I will note that the insides of the toilet are beyond what I have ever seen! The flushing mechanism throws out the old components for what looks to be a much more user friendly experience. Adjusting water levels are a breeze and all adjustments are easy to see. I really like how this is laid out.

A few small issues of the install that I did have.

1. They suggest (optionally) that you put caulk around the bottom of the toilet. I know this gives it a nicer look, however it can trap water in there, making you not notice a leak and potentially rotting the floor. I opted not to put the caulk for this reason. Update: Chris,a commenter, suggested caulking around the bowl and leaving the back exposed to check for leaks. I think this is a great idea.

2. I did not see in the instructions to level the tank, which I felt was important. I did bring a level up for this.

3. I don’t like the handle, it has grown on me, but I would have preferred a nice matching white.
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Overall if you are in the market for a toilet, I would seriously suggest going for a Delta Toilet. Their commitment to innovation and quality has continued into this new realm and I know it will last!

Corrente C43904-WH

Delta Toilets are exclusively available at The Home Depot

 

 

New backyard steps

 

Below are the steps that used to be on the back of my garage. A garish pinkish tan that matched nothing else (house is white with blue shutters) They were never pretty steps, but they served a purpose when I needed them, which was not often.

With the new screened canopy setup behind my garage I had found myself using them more and more. They always squeaked and moved a little bit, but I rarely used them.

Project Stats: Installing concrete pad and steps
Time: 6 hours (over two days)
Cost: Low
Difficulty: Medium-High
Value for cost: High
Tools Needed: Concrete, wood, nails (galvanized), deck screws, stringers, joist hangers, tape measure, levels

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As you can see the canopy is setup right next to the stairs and it needed to be tethered down so it would not fly away. For the other three corners I used ShelterLogic 30in. Auger Anchors. For this corner that was close I decided to attach an eye bolt into the stairs as they should be secure…right?

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After taking some of the steps off I noticed that the stringers were held on with L-Brackets…not too safe.

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There was also nothing supporting the steps from below. Overall I’m surprised that this passed inspection, actually I am surprised I was able to walk on these without falling!

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There were a lot of shortcuts taken here too, there was about 2in of contact to the ledger with 3 1.5in nails. At least they were galvanized.

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I quite literally started to take them apart and the whole thing collapsed.

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I started by taking down the old ledger (3 nails into the footer of the garage frame)

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As you can see the old ledger just snapped when I pried it off.

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As they were 3 steps before I went with 3 again. I did not make my own stringers as it is not really worth the time (IMHO)

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I went with steps that were 40in wide, slightly larger than the door. I had a cutout in the siding that was 36 in already, so I decided that I would plan my stringers with that. Taking two stringers at the end and a placement ledger I cut a 2X4 to 33 inches so I could find out where my concrete pad would need to go.

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33in + 3in for the two stringers = 36in

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I used some deck screws to attach them together.

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I then tacked another 2X4 to the sill plate to act as a ledger.

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Marked a level line for where I wanted the first stair to be located.

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Now I knew where the concrete pad needed to be exactly. Having worked with concrete before I knew that this could only be done once. I used stakes that had markings and locations to know where I would need to put my frame.

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My frame was a hair wider than 36in to catch the stringers, with very little left over so there would not be a blob of concrete on the sides. I framed the pad with scrap 2X4′s and attached them to the marked stakes to make sure they were level.

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This quite honestly took the longest part of the whole project, making sure the pad was level and in the exact right place!

To prep the pad I took some gravel (had some in the back yard) and made a 4in base of it, making sure to pack it down well so it would not shift in the future.

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I took one bag of QUIKRETE COMPANIES 80 LB Concrete Mix and mixed it up well. I usually add extra water as I find mixing it with a shovel makes it more difficult. For this bag I added a little more than 2 gallons.

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Sorry, no pictures during the pour. I just took my shovel and scooped it into the frame. Making sure to push into the mix to eliminate any air bubbles and to mix the concrete into the gravel base.

After the concrete was to the top of the frame I screed it with a 2X4 and then used an edging tool to help round the corners. I was not too concerned with the looks as it would be covered with the actual steps.

I let the mix sit for almost 24 hours. After it had solidified I sprayed it with water and covered it with some 6mil plastic to help it cure.

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Once the concrete set for a while it was time to install the ledger and stringer. I put a 2X8 PT ledger in place of the notched one.I fastened it with a combination of Tapcon Concrete Screws and deck screws. Normally I would suggest using nails as screws shear, but I’ve heard that the Tapcons have the correct strength for this application.

Once it was seated and in place I took a level and measured again where my top step would sit. Instead of toe-nailing I decided to use stringer hangers. This was the most expensive part of the entire purchase, but well worth it. Make sure to use galvanized nails as regular nails will corrode with the pressure treated wood!

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This hanger will never come down!

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I took a lot of time making sure that everything was level, left to right as well as front to back. In the end I decided to slope the steps slightly away from the house to help if there was water.

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As all wood, especially new wood, expands and shrinks I used a deck screw as a spacer.

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Before I put the last stringer in I dry fit everything in case of any problems. I used a 2X4 spacer to make sure that everything was square and was set in the right spot.

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The finished product!

Now the stairs are secure, look great and will last a lifetime!

Ear Peace product review

Every once in a while I’m approached to do a product review. Sometimes I am interested, other times I am not.  I like to spend my time using or writing about things I like, and I would rather not waste my time reviewing something I will just end up throwing out.

A few weeks (months) ago Katherine from Ear Peace contacted me about a review:

As an expert in home renovation, you are often exposed to loud noises. Whether you are driling, hammering or stapling, it is crucial to protect your hearing during the process.

The National Institute on Deafness and Other Communication Disorders states that about 15 percent (26 million) of Americans between the ages of 20-69 have high frequency loss due to loud sound exposure, work-related noise and leisure activities.  In fact, one in three adults and about 20 percent of teens suffer from hearing loss; these are some serious stats.
So what can we do to protect our hearing that’s easy, cost-effective and discreet?  Get your peace of mind with EarPeace:http://www.earpeace.com/
Here are some key EarPeace highlights:

  • Clear Hearing: EarPeace simultaneously protects hearing and provides high-quality sound. When used properly, EarPeace reduces sound pressure by 75 percent while maintaining sound fidelity.  Hearing isn’t muffled.
  • Comfortable and Safe: EarPeace is comfortable and made out of safe, strong, reusable hypoallergenic silicone.
  • Discreet: EarPeace is a lifestyle brand, so it comes in three different skin tones.
  • Convenient: EarPeace comes in a sleek stylish aluminum case you can conveniently carry on your keychain, purse, etc.
  • Proven: EarPeace was tested by Michael & Associates, the leading independent lab in the country for measuring hearing protection performance.
  • Affordable: EarPeace has an MSRP of $12.95 and offers a money back guarantee.

EarPeace is the first company to release a hearing protection product that matches superior sound experience with an appealing aesthetic. Users are able to clearly and comfortably enjoy the loud events they attend, talk to people around them, and leave without their ears ringing.  People can enjoy life while protecting their hearing at the same time.
If you’re interested, we can send you EarPeace product for review.
Thank you,
Katherine 

I responded with a quick and straightforward email:
Katherine,

I would be happy to review your product for you, after looking at your site they sound really interesting, affordable and practical.
If you wanted me to do a review, I would have to require that it be objective. If your product is good, you have nothing to worry about :) I would also let you know ahead of time and issues I saw with your product and offer suggestions to improve them.
As a former sound engineer I know hearing protection is very important and a lot of people do not like bulky hearing protection. From what I see this looks to be a great product.
Let me know what information you require from me and I would be happy to get this process going.
Mike

I value my hearing a lot.  I love music and quality sound. The stereo in my first car was worth more than the car! During college I was a sound engineer and became accustomed to quality. As I age (not really) I pay attention to all the stresses on my ears. I wear ear protection when I mow, snowblow, weedwack, use powertools and any other loud noises.  The one problem I always found was that headphones get in the way.  So how did EarPeace stack up?

  • Clear Hearing: I had to say I am really impressed with how clear I could hear with these in.  I was able to have conversations with my wife and still have good protection when using my 40 year old snowblower. (8/10)
  • Comfortable and Safe: The product was more comfortable than expected. Once I figured out how to put them in properly it worked well and they did not bother me at all! (10/10)
  • Discreet: Honestly I do not care about this.  My normal hearing protection is a set of big black headphones! But they do blend in and would be perfect for a concert! (8/10)
  • Convenient: I was really impressed with the quality of the case.  It is solid aluminum, nicely made and solid. I love that it fits perfectly in a compartment or can actually be put on your keychain. (10/10)
  • Proven: They worked great for me and I am going to use them as long as they last. (10/10)
  • Affordable: For under $20 these are pretty awesome. (10/10)
On top of that they give you an extra ear peace in case you lose one.  One suggestion I have is that they find a way to connect the two together so they are harder to lose.  I did lose one for a while and then it appeared, luckily I had the extra and I keep all three in the container now.
Cleaning is probably the hardest part, and I like to keep my plugs clean.  A nice damp cloth and a little attention will go a long way.
Overall I was really impressed with these.  If mine ever wear out I will buy my own set and use them all the time.
Company Note: After publishing this article EarPeace wanted to state that although they do provide hearing protection it is not rated for industrial applications (construction, standing near an airplane, etc…) Be safe with your hearing :)
To note: I was not paid for this review. I was sent one test unit to write about with no restrictions.

Self Centering Drywall Circle Jig

I’m going to start off by saying that I think I came up with this on my own. However it is a pretty simple idea, and may have been thought of before.

When I was finishing my basement I wanted to have recessed lighting. What I did not want to do is spend a fortune to cut a few circles into drywall. Looking at the hardware store every circle cutting tool was at least $25, I’m way too cheap to spend that much on a tool I will use only a few times… So I looked at some things in my shop. I had shims, rope, tape, glue, etc…

The traditional method is to use string, however finding the center point is a pain, and if it twists the circle is off.  I wanted something fool proof that while spending a long day hanging drywall would allow me to keep up the pace of my helper/drywall trainer (thanks Hank!)

What I came up with is extremely simple, and practically has zero costs. It will cut perfect circles as long as you follow some simple steps.

Project: Self Centering Drywall Circle Jig
Cost: None
Materials: Shim, Awl, Pencil
Difficulty: Easy (to make) Medium (to measure and cut)
Awesomeness: Really Awesome

 

I start by measuring the cover that I will see. This gives me a little wiggle room.

 

Measure into the middle of the rim, in this case 6.5in

In order to make this a simple, cheap tool I used shims. They are easy to come by and are made of soft wood. As I use an awl for part of this it ensures I can drive the awl through the wood and have it stay in place.

Take half of your measurement, in this case 3.25in. Make marks in the shim at this distance.

I use a rubber mallet to drive an awl through. Yes I know this is a nail set…

I then drill a small hole for the pencil. Making it just big enough for the lead to poke through. 5/16 is way too big!

This is all that is required to make the jig, I told you it was simple!

Now the hard part, and this is up to you. Make sure to measure if you are not certain… What you need to do is establish four “corners so you can draw a square.  Use whatever edges you feel comfortable with. Just make sure you are really close as there is only a little room for mistake.

Make sure to measure where you need the hole to be. This is up to you!

Establish the four points. For me this was a 6.5in square, same as the circle I wanted to cut.

 

Make sure to mark the center of the lines around the square. This is where you will punch the awl.

All the points are marked out. Let’s draw some circular lines!

Punch the awl through the mark so the shim is firm, and draw the line with the pencil. Repeat for each of the 4 marks.

When you are done you will have something that looks pretty like this!

Once you have all of the circles drawn, you will have a center point. Now just put the awl where all the points meet and draw a full circle.

Make sure to go all the way around. It might be so much fun to go around a few times :)

Almost like Da Vinci drew this!

WOW, THAT WAS EASY! Now you know where you light should go.

To remove the drywall I do the following:
Gently trace around the circle, cutting the paper and some of the rock.
Cut lines across the 4 points and between those points (like a pizza)
Gently hit with a mallet to remove the front.
Cut out the back paper.

After cutting some lines I use a mallet gently to knock the drywall out for easier cutting.

After a gentle tap with the mallet.

After a few taps all you will have is some of the back paper you can trim with a knife.

All cut out. It is a lot nicer than it looks, I promise :)

Look at that, the cover fits perfectly!

And that is it, a simple way to cut circles in drywall. Hopefully this helps!

Choosing a Vinyl Fence for your yard

As I have written about my yard and fences before: Removing an Old Fence The fence in my yard could use replacing. After a few years of pondering, saving and dragging my feet I decided that this was the year to replace our fence.

One section done while another is being put together.

I will start this post by saying that installing a fence properly is no small task. The fence I took down was put in with minimal effort. As I like to do things properly I did a lot of research into fencing and found that the best product overall for my situation was Vinyl Fencing. With no parts to rot, chip, stain it will last for years as long as I don’t run it over with my tractor.

What I found was there are a lot of fencing companies out there with big and small differences between them. Fencing found in big box stores are often made of lower quality materials and have some obvious traits.

Big Box Fencing Characteristics:

  • Weak walled boards and posts
  • Exposed brackets
  • Parts that will rust
  • Decorative Posts that cover wood
  • Rigid, Brittle plastics
  • Made in China
After checking out several fence contractors and examining products I decided to go with Active Yards. Their fencing had a build quality that I found to be impressive. Combined with an easy and effective design I was sold on their product. On top of that they are an American company that makes their product in this country! (I was not sponsored by Active Yards in any way)
High Quality Fencing Characteristics:
  • Solid construction
  • Invisible, routed brackets
  • No rusting parts
  • Solid Vinyl posts that will never rot
  • Easily assembled panels
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • American Made (there are some quality imported fences)
The Active Yards fencing had all of these characteristics, once I had the post holes dug the fence literally snapped into place.

 

The sections literally snap into place with the routed grooves!

If you are looking to install a fence make sure to go with a reputable fence company. After looking at about half a dozen companies I went with Active Yards, they had the best product at a great price point.

The next post will be on the install of a fence. This will include tips from the professionals and some great time saving techniques.